August 2014




114-Oceans Eleven

115-Wet and Hairy

116-Bi Color



121-Tanz in Den Mai

123-Snake Alley

All route were bolted by Germans, and now the bolts are “cracking”. A note was left on the first bolt to prevent people climbing it.

Re-bolt group will discuss if they are going to remove the bolt or rebolting it.

Besides that:

Backdoor 67-Cowboy Arete, Rock seems unstable. A note was also left on the first bolt to prevent people climbing it.

8/30 黃金谷 浪之外,危險bolt 路線如下
114 瞞天過海
115 濕濕毛毛
116 雙色
118 前奏
119 高潮
121 舞進五月天
123 華西街
以上所述路線是前德國人打的bolt 部份老舊產生裂痕,已在第一個bolt繫上字條,標明危險bolt不建議攀登。
PS 後門
67 牛仔外角 ,上方大石板有崩落之虞,也繫上字條標明危險路線,不建議攀登。

Read more

Longdong Climbing Diary – Longlane

Taiwan_Rock_Climbing_20140824 (21)

Jason thumbs up for the day!

Another summer climb at Longdong. Still hot but no big waves, perfect for scuba diving. And as usual people packed themselves at Longlane. One of the area that is in the shade in the morning.

Most of the pictures from this weekend were taken at Longlane – Bulletin Board. A wall that is about 30m tall with numbers of quality sports climb including one of the greatest 5.10 at Longong, the “Sky Ladder 5.10b”.



Taiwan_Rock_Climbing_20140824 (2)

When diving become a must have in the summer. Maurice and Susan


Taiwan_Rock_Climbing_20140824 (13)

Chet on 426-Inconceivable 5.11a

Taiwan_Rock_Climbing_20140824 (3)

Elvin on 426-Inconceivable 5.11a

426-Inconceivable 5.11a

Classic lines with intimidating crux.

426-非想 5.11a



Taiwan_Rock_Climbing_20140824 (18)

Peggy on 427-Pausible 5.10b

427-Pausible 5.10b

Start from the left of Inconceivable. Climb over the roof is a little bit scary.



Read more

STONE Bouldering Diary Vine Videos

STONE Bouldering Diary Vine Videos

Stone #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing #taipei #taiwan

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan


#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan

Read more

What Moves You?


Chet on roof, Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym



Climbing is scary sometimes, but what moves you?


Read more

Taiwan Rock Climbing Diary

Taiwan Rock Climbing Diary
Longdong_Longlane_20140720 (8)


The summer heat in Taiwan sometimes just so intolerable. And longlane is one of the areas that offers shade to climb in the morning. That’s why most of the time it’s crowded in summer. But at least you have an amazing swimming pool just outside of it.

Longdong_Longlane_20140720 (7)

Hiroshi on Skyhook

448-天勾 5.11a 運動


448-Skyhook 5.11a sport

A short, technical route. Easy start lead to tricky moves at the finish. 7QD.

Longdong_Longlane_20140720 (9)

阿飄 on Fireman’s Ladder

435-Fireman’s Ladder 5.7 傳攀


435-Fireman’s Ladder 5.7 Trad

Easy line up the low-angle groove to access the top anchor of Rated G. rack to #2 Camlot.

Read more

達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym

達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym

一個簡單的縮時攝影在新開幕的達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym。
A short time laps at 達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym.





蓋亞冒險學校 GAIA Adventure School
電話 02-2555-4867 0911-909-592

Read more

Slipping Bolts Warning

Music_Hall_Paul_Ratje_ Reluctant

由Danger Zhang 分享於 Facebook的Taiwan Climbing Calendar,可以看的出來BOLT在特定情況下會有多脆弱。永遠遵照安全準則,且永遠有兩點的安全固定點,應為它是你的生命!

Originally post by Danger Zhang on Facebook group Taiwan Climbing Calendar, it shows how fragile can the bolts be in certain circumstances. Always fellow the safety protocol and have 2 anchor points, because your life depends on it.

“The bolt is slipping out of the wall!”
Words you never want to hear at the crag

Yesterday at Music Hall Paul Ratje climbed #350 Reluctant and discovered one of the anchor bolts was coming out of the wall when he weighted it. The other one seemed ok so he did the smart thing and lowered off the good looking anchor bolt as well as the 2nd to last quickdraw — this way he had two points of protection coming down.

While rare, this has happened at Long Dong before – a glue in bolt not being installed properly and the glue not mixing correctly. Look out for bolts with inconsistent glue color — The glue should be a consistent brown or orange color. Any bolt showing pink, or yellowish hue, or inconsistent color in general needs to be treated with caution. You can also check the bolt by pushing the glue – it should be a consistent hardness(Rock hard) all the way around.

Hopefully this is an isolated case but to keep track of this kind of stuff it’s a very good idea to read your guidebook thoroughly on the places you climb and also check out Guidebook+, our online route database tracking the latest bolt conditions and other route info

A real bad guy smiles even the top anchor pops out!!! #rockclimbing #climbing #taipei #taiwan #bouldering

Read more