August 2014

DANGEROUS BOLTS WARNING

WARNING WARNING WARNING!

30-AUS-2014 DANGEROUS BOLTS at EURO WALL

114-Oceans Eleven

115-Wet and Hairy

116-Bi Color

118-Prelude

119-Climax

121-Tanz in Den Mai

123-Snake Alley

All route were bolted by Germans, and now the bolts are “cracking”. A note was left on the first bolt to prevent people climbing it.

Re-bolt group will discuss if they are going to remove the bolt or rebolting it.

Besides that:

Backdoor 67-Cowboy Arete, Rock seems unstable. A note was also left on the first bolt to prevent people climbing it.

8/30 黃金谷 浪之外,危險bolt 路線如下
114 瞞天過海
115 濕濕毛毛
116 雙色
118 前奏
119 高潮
121 舞進五月天
123 華西街
以上所述路線是前德國人打的bolt 部份老舊產生裂痕,已在第一個bolt繫上字條,標明危險bolt不建議攀登。
待商議再找時間移除或不再重新re-bolt
PS 後門
67 牛仔外角 ,上方大石板有崩落之虞,也繫上字條標明危險路線,不建議攀登。

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Longdong Climbing Diary – Longlane

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Jason thumbs up for the day!

Another summer climb at Longdong. Still hot but no big waves, perfect for scuba diving. And as usual people packed themselves at Longlane. One of the area that is in the shade in the morning.

Most of the pictures from this weekend were taken at Longlane – Bulletin Board. A wall that is about 30m tall with numbers of quality sports climb including one of the greatest 5.10 at Longong, the “Sky Ladder 5.10b”.

另一個夏天的龍洞,天氣還是如記憶中的那樣炎熱,但這發燙周日卻風平浪靜,適合潛水。當然一如往常的所有的攀岩者都擠到了長巷,一個龍洞可以好好躲太陽的地方。

這周末大部分的照片都在長巷布告欄拍攝。布告欄是一個高約30公尺的巨大牆面,這裡擁有多條高品質的運動攀登路線,當然還包誇了5.10中的經典路線“倒走天梯”。

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When diving become a must have in the summer. Maurice and Susan

 

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Chet on 426-Inconceivable 5.11a

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Elvin on 426-Inconceivable 5.11a

426-Inconceivable 5.11a

Classic lines with intimidating crux.

426-非想 5.11a

難關嚇死人的經典路線。

 

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Peggy on 427-Pausible 5.10b

427-Pausible 5.10b

Start from the left of Inconceivable. Climb over the roof is a little bit scary.

427-發想5.10b

由非想右側起攀,在屋頂的地方有些嚇人!

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STONE Bouldering Diary Vine Videos

STONE Bouldering Diary Vine Videos

Stone #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing #taipei #taiwan

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan

 

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan

#bouldering #climbing #rockclimbing #taipei #taiwan

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What Moves You?

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Chet on roof, Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym

攀岩總是有可怕的時候,但什麼讓你勇敢向前?

朋友的鼓勵

Climbing is scary sometimes, but what moves you?

Friends!

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Taiwan Rock Climbing Diary

Taiwan Rock Climbing Diary
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台灣的夏天真的不饒人,長巷是龍洞攀岩場少數早上有陰影的地方,這也是為什麼夏天長巷總是擠滿了攀岩客,雖然攀岩的地方有點擁擠,但是至少長巷的外面有一個超棒的天然游泳池,讓你好好消暑!

The summer heat in Taiwan sometimes just so intolerable. And longlane is one of the areas that offers shade to climb in the morning. That’s why most of the time it’s crowded in summer. But at least you have an amazing swimming pool just outside of it.

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Hiroshi on Skyhook

448-天勾 5.11a 運動

需要平衡技巧的短路線。起攀不難,最後難關挑戰指力。

448-Skyhook 5.11a sport

A short, technical route. Easy start lead to tricky moves at the finish. 7QD.

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阿飄 on Fireman’s Ladder

435-Fireman’s Ladder 5.7 傳攀

斜板上簡單的凹槽路線。上到普遍級上方的固定點。最大2號Camlot。

435-Fireman’s Ladder 5.7 Trad

Easy line up the low-angle groove to access the top anchor of Rated G. rack to #2 Camlot.

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達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym

達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym

一個簡單的縮時攝影在新開幕的達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym。
A short time laps at 達文西攀岩館 Da Vinci Rock Climbing Gym.

北投運動中心攀岩館自2014年起,由蓋亞冒險學校承接,定名為「達文西攀岩館」

北投運動中心攀岩館,自2014年起由蓋亞冒險學校承接,提供專業攀岩運動教學與攀岩場管理,並定名為「達文西攀岩館」。

蓋亞冒險學校為戶外冒險教育機構,自2005年起推廣風浪板、獨木舟、攀岩、溯溪、單車、滑雪….等冒險運動。

如今蓋亞冒險學校旗下「達文西攀岩場館」,不受天候影響,長期有效地推動探索教育和體驗教育,讓更多喜愛攀岩的朋友,一同運動的朋友,注重家庭的親子….一個探索與冒險的園地。

蓋亞冒險學校 GAIA Adventure School
網站 http://www.outdoor.org.tw/
FB粉絲專頁 https://www.facebook.com/gaia.adventure.school
電話 02-2555-4867 0911-909-592

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Slipping Bolts Warning

Music_Hall_Paul_Ratje_ Reluctant

由Danger Zhang 分享於 Facebook的Taiwan Climbing Calendar,可以看的出來BOLT在特定情況下會有多脆弱。永遠遵照安全準則,且永遠有兩點的安全固定點,應為它是你的生命!

Originally post by Danger Zhang on Facebook group Taiwan Climbing Calendar, it shows how fragile can the bolts be in certain circumstances. Always fellow the safety protocol and have 2 anchor points, because your life depends on it.

“The bolt is slipping out of the wall!”
Words you never want to hear at the crag

Yesterday at Music Hall Paul Ratje climbed #350 Reluctant and discovered one of the anchor bolts was coming out of the wall when he weighted it. The other one seemed ok so he did the smart thing and lowered off the good looking anchor bolt as well as the 2nd to last quickdraw — this way he had two points of protection coming down.

While rare, this has happened at Long Dong before – a glue in bolt not being installed properly and the glue not mixing correctly. Look out for bolts with inconsistent glue color — The glue should be a consistent brown or orange color. Any bolt showing pink, or yellowish hue, or inconsistent color in general needs to be treated with caution. You can also check the bolt by pushing the glue – it should be a consistent hardness(Rock hard) all the way around.

Hopefully this is an isolated case but to keep track of this kind of stuff it’s a very good idea to read your guidebook thoroughly on the places you climb and also check out Guidebook+, our online route database tracking the latest bolt conditions and other route info

www.tinyurl.com/LDTaiwan

A real bad guy smiles even the top anchor pops out!!! #rockclimbing #climbing #taipei #taiwan #bouldering

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