November 2013

Journey to Squaw Taiwan 環山部落

Journey to Squaw Taiwan 環山部落

Journey to Squaw Taiwan (1)

Journey to Squaw Taiwan (2)

上週 Jay 跟我們分享了他去環山部落的照片,很開心的這台PGO居然還能與他一同上山下海! 🙂

我們也在 Vimeo 上找到了這部有關環山部落的一些介紹影片,值得一看喔~!

So last weekend Jay shared his photo with us from his Journey to Squaw Taiwan. Glad to know his PGO scooter still can take all the hard work and abuse. 🙂

We also found this “Love Sqoyaw Promo Debut” video on Vimeo about this special place. Worth a LOOK of course!

Love Sqoyaw Promo Debut from sQoyaw Film on Vimeo.

It’s about the indigenous young people who live in Taiwan, eager to back home to fulfill the whole life dreams come true.

written and directed by Sayun Simung
Music from 「Inside your head」 by Eberg
Special Thanks
Karo Sifu

Love Sqoyaw promo 2 from sQoyaw Film on Vimeo.

Directed and Photography : Sayun Simung

Music From : Skylar Grey – Coming Home

WIth
黃澤浩 梁元梅
黃家祥 宋雅齡
宋哲恩 陳思韻

Special Thanks : 黃士傑 / Karo Sifu

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Alex Honnold Climb Taipei 101

Alex Honnold to Climb Taipei 101

Alex Honnold Climb Taipei 101

世上數一數二的的自由攀登高手 Alex Honnold 將在無任何安裝裝備下徒手攀登,曾是史上最高的大樓”台北101″,此驚人消息一出讓攀岩界興奮不已。

完整報導將如下所述,攀岩界則是迫不及待看到 Alex Honnold 做出這驚人的自由攀登。

美國攀登家艾力克斯·霍諾德(Alex Honnold),據傳10月會到台灣,他將要挑戰攀登台北101大樓外墻,屆時,美國DISCOVERY頻道也會隨行記錄。

此消息一出,讓各界都很興奮。不過,艾力克斯向來是徒手攀爬,不攜帶任何繩索、防護工具,而“赤手爬高樓”風險太高,業者還是希望能讓艾力克斯背小型降落傘,以保障安全。

【僑報綜合報導】繼法國蜘蛛人亞倫·羅伯特(Alain Robert)9年前攀爬台北101大樓后,將再有極限高手挑戰101。有台媒25日報導,台北業者近日積極與台北市府體育局接洽,有意邀請美國攀登家艾 力克斯·霍諾德赴台,並於10月挑戰徒手攀508米的外墻。

業者很頭痛!

艾力克斯拒穿戴任何防護措施

綜合台北TVBS、香港中通社報導,亞倫·羅伯特於當地時間2004年12月25日上午成功爬上台北101大樓,羅伯特除了安全繩索外沒有用任 何工具,他出發后先是徒手攀爬,但到第七層時因下雨樓滑,只好改以繩索協助,最后他爬至508米的塔尖取下旗幟,交給台北101總經理林鴻明,完成挑戰, 全過程約3小時。

當時羅伯特攀登101的路線是從大樓西南角開始,本次活動應會參考當時路線,艾力克斯將耗費3到4小時,從平地爬上500多米高處。

艾力克斯是美國知名攀登家,他面對高度沒有一絲畏懼,曾徒手爬過美國大峽谷,這次傳出10月到台灣徒手攀爬101,讓各界都很興奮,但他拒絶穿戴任何防護措施,也讓業者很頭痛。

市府很積極!

可藉此活動打響台北城市知名度

由於101外墻是玻璃帷幕,不像之前艾力克斯挑戰的自然峽谷,有凹凸石塊可以踩踏,危險性相對提高,目前仍在協調,希望艾力克斯可以背着小型降落傘。

對此,101的相關工作人員則不願回應,若艾力克斯真的到台灣,美國DISCOVERY頻道也會隨行記錄,預計將掀起旋風,引來大批民衆爭先目睹這難得一見的攀爬極限。

台北市府體育局指出,101大樓是指標性建築,若能藉此項活動吸引更多觀光客赴台旅遊,並打響台北城市知名度,樂觀其成。不過,安全為首要考量因素,業者一定要提出安全保證。10月適逢台北市舉辦全運會,若能結合兩活動一起行銷,可以創造雙贏。

So According to the news, Alex Honnold one of the best free soloing climber in the world gonna climb this once tallest building in the world “Taipei 101”. And this is just way to extreme and crazy.

Full report as below and we cant wait for this amazing accent!

“Alex Honnold Isn’t Afraid of Skyscrapers.”

Beneath this bolded headline sat a photo of Honnold looking more like a depression-era construction worker than a climber. The faux “Lunch atop a Skyscraper”-style black-and-white picture depicted Honnold in a pair of dirty work pants that hung from suspenders strapped across his shirtless torso, and his now famous “doe-eyed” gaze emanates from under the brim of a floppy Newsboy cap.
The article, which appeared on Outsideonline.com, broke open the details about Honnold’s upcoming televised exploit. He’s going to freesolo the second tallest building in Asia—Taiwan’s Taipei 101. As I read the article—which seemed to hype up the possibility of a “live televised tragedy”—I found very little of Honnold’s own voice and attitude. Honnold is someone I’ve climbed with, respect and know is a total bad-ass ninja on the rock, in other words, he’s as “core” as it gets, but after reading the exaggerated “will-he-won’t he-make-it” speculation of the article, I questioned the motivation behind the buildering solo. And probably just like most devout climbers—or at least the ones that know Dan Osman and Michael Reardon didn’t die in climbing accidents as the Outside article claimed—the inevitable question arose … Is Honnold Selling Out?

It’s a tantalizing question. Here’s a guy who has nearly 100,000 likes on his Facebook fan-page, been on 60 Minutes and appeared in a Citibank commercial. It wouldn’t be hard to imagine that the attention has gone to his head, and that he wants … well … more! But instead of speculating that the event is indeed a publicity stunt, I decided to ask Honnold himself about the Taipei 101 free solo.

 

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Video Kaohsiung Rock Climbing Cijin & Shoushan 高雄旗津壽山攀岩紀錄短片

Video Kaohsiung Rock Climbing Cijin & Shoushan 高雄旗津壽山攀岩紀錄短片

 

11月中了, 當台北開始感受到冷風的威力時, 我們決定南下到高雄攀岩。這次選了兩個攀岩的地點,壽山岩場與旗津岩場。

壽山岩場大部分為珊瑚岩,這些岩質手點大且多、變化形狀也很豐富、但是部分岩點易碎且容易割手。壽山岩場地形較龍洞小上許多,但有樹陰遮陽,讓高雄的豔陽不會讓攀岩者過度勞累。

旗津岩場則有一個美麗的珊瑚岩攀岩場,在那裡有一個高約30m的岩牆,與一個可以享受日落的小沙灘。

旗津攀岩照片

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In the middle of the November when the cold wing start to show his muscles in Taipei, we decide to go down south to climb at Kaohsiung . This time we choose to climb at Cijin and Shoushan.

Most of the walls at Shoushan is limestone with nice and variable pocket, tho some of them are fragile and quite sharp. Climbing at Shoushan is more relaxing than Longdong since trees provide plenty of shades.

Cijin What they said about this place is a beautiful and 30m tall limestone wall settle on a beach where you can enjoy the sunset.

Cijin Rock Climbing Pics

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Ken Block’s First GRC Victory – Las Vegas

Ken Block’s First GRC Victory – Las Vegas

DC SHOES 創辦人 Ken Block ,致力於極限拉力賽車運動,總算在2013年的 Global Rally Cross (世界拉力穿越賽) 中拿下首次國際比賽冠軍了! 恭喜 Ken Block !

After a string of bad luck in Global Rally Cross, Ken Block finally gets the much deserved win. Congratulations Ken!

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Woodward West BMX Subrosa

Woodward West BMX Subrosa

Calling all Subrosa fans

 

Subrosa 特技 BMX 於 Woodward West 活動拍的一系列影片,又再次分享給了所有 BMX 愛好者,但這次 Subrosa 需要你的幫助讓這些影片變成成為官方票選第一名的影片喔!

I’m pretty psyched on this one, as this really gets all of you, the Subrosa fans, involved. Woodward West held this event where teams go to camp for a week and produce an edit. The edits are voted on by you, the fans, and by a panel of judges. So get involved!

We sent Subrosa pro riders Simone Barraco, Lahsaan Kobza, Kyle Hart, and Hoang Tran to Woodward West with Bobby Kanode, and I love our edit! The team involvement, everyone stoked to party and ride with each other, and some serious moves went down!

Check out the Subrosa edit here.

Check out all the videos here and vote (for Subrosa) on the top left side of the page.

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Cijin Rock Climbing Kaohsiung 高雄旗津攀岩

Cijin Rock Climbing Kaohsiung 高雄旗津攀岩

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Travis and Chet share thoughts about this beautiful limestone wall.

Travis 與 Chet 打量這面美麗的珊瑚岩牆

我們不斷聽到高雄的旗津有一個美麗的珊瑚岩攀岩場,在那裡有一個高約30m的岩牆,與一個可以享受日落的小沙灘。

聽起來很酷值得探索對吧?

在當地人的口述下我們跟者小徑走,很意外的一下就找到了旗津岩場,因為這個岩場就座落在遊客必經的觀光步道旁邊。

這裡已經有一條完整架設好的路線可以攀爬,但是旗津岩場是否能繼續開發仍是個未知數,因為當地的警察並不喜歡攀岩客,理由則是”攀岩很危險,人們不該攀岩”。

在旗津攀岩並不違法,但人們不希望我們在那攀岩。 這讓旗津這個地方對攀岩客來說有些許的憂傷…

這天很幸運的我們攀岩到了日落,夕陽給了大海營火般的溫暖, 海洋也將船隻慢慢的交給了月亮,我們的心也與海面開時集結的迷霧一樣…看不清旗津岩場的未來…

但自少這天在旗津的 Seattlite Café & Crêperie 享受了一杯值得慶祝的咖啡,與朋友的歡笑。 😛

Cijin Rock Climbing Kaohsiung (5)

People always surprised by what we are doing, cus they think it’s dangerous.

當地的警察並不喜歡攀岩者,理由則是”攀岩很危險,人們不該攀岩”。

We been keep hearing rumors about Cijin( or Qijin ) climbing spot at Kaohsiung. What they said about this place is a beautiful and 30m tall limestone wall settle on a beach where you can enjoy the sunset.

Sounds awesome and we have to check it out isn’t it?

We follow the trail and the path that local mentioned, and surprisingly it’s not that hard to find. Since the place just beside the tourist trail around Cijin island.

Tho there are already 1 completed bolted route , but this place still under controversy of further develop. And what we heard is the police don’t want climber’s to climb at that place. And the reason is “rock climbing is dangerous, people shouldn’t do it”

Climbing at Cijin is not illegal but people don’t like us to be there. And that make this place with so much regret.

Below is Travis quote on the climbing route at Cijin island

There is the one route close to the bridge just outside the tunnel on the beach that is bolted all the way up. At the top it’s pretty overhung and pumpy but I’d say its a 5.10c roundabouts. Then closer to the water, there is (about 30 feet up) 2 bolts next to each other with no links. Above that there is one bolt with an extremely rusty carabiner and quick link. Then the route just stops or you can do what I did, an traverse to the right protecting the traverse with slings, and hook into webbing that is tied around a “handle” in the limestone and use that as an anchor point.

To the left 5-7 meters of the two bolts i mentioned is one bolt with a rusty quick link attached. That’s all I could see out there but there’s much more potential for development. I just bought a bunch of cord and webbing and plan to go out there tomorrow (just found out I have work today) and see what we can run up on top rope using slings for pro and the handle as the master anchor point.

We were lucky to climb till sunset, but our hearts feel just like the fog gathering above the ocean…cant see through clearing of Cijin Climbing Spot’s future.

At least we have a friendly welcome at Seattlite Café & Crêperie and enjoy our celebration drink. 😛

Cijin Rock Climbing Kaohsiung (15)

our hearts feel just like the fog gathering above the ocean…cant see through clearing of Cijin Climbing Spot’s future.

夕陽給了大海營火般的溫暖, 海洋也將船隻慢慢的交給了月亮

Cijin Rock Climbing Kaohsiung (16)

Seattlite Café & Crêperie 享受了一杯值得慶祝的咖啡,與朋友的歡笑。

At least we have a friendly welcome at Seattlite Café & Crêperie and enjoy our celebration drink. 😛

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Long Dong(Dragon’s Cave) – First Cave PICS

Long Dong(Dragon’s Cave) – First Cave PICS Otc-11-2013

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這天我們花了大部分的時間與 Paul 一起攀爬 Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a)。

Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a) 位於龍洞的第一洞地區,下方是來自[台灣龍洞攀岩路線書] 的地區簡介。

第一洞為東北角海岸上的最大岩石洞穴。洞穴的頂部是龍洞最大的天花板地形(離地約30m高),洞內的外傾岩面一直延伸到平整壯觀的天花板。

任何想要攀登第一洞內的攀岩者,對於攀岩天然岩場上的鬆動岩石需有足夠的經驗。而且不論身處岩壁或洞內,都須預防潛在危險的發生。

We spend most of them time with Paul to watch him trying hard to finish his project Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a).

Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a) is at First Cave, and below is the introduction if this special area at Londong.

First Cave is the largest cave on the entire coast, with overhanging rock on surrounding walls leading up to a huge, flat ceiling, 30m above the ground.

Anyone wishing to climb inside the cave should have experience climbing outdoors on loose rock and must be prepared for potentially hazardous conditions both on the wall and on the ground.

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Long Dong(Dragon’s Cave) – First Cave

Long Dong(Dragon’s Cave) – First Cave

大部分的影片為 Paul 試圖完成 Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a), 影片的一開始為 Chet 與 Jason 攀爬 Sky Ladder 倒走天梯 (5.10b).

Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a) – 煙囪地形石邊,從岩懸上的困難小點起攀。-  台灣龍洞攀岩路線書

Sky Ladder 倒走天梯 (5.10b) – 同級路線攀登數一數二的經典代表, 需要連續攀登數個天花板. – 台灣龍洞攀岩路線書

Paul’s project on Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a)

Most of the video show Paul’s project on Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a), and the start of the video is Chet and Jason working on Sky Ladder 倒走天梯 (5.10b).

Fen Yuan Trap 粉圓陷阱 (5.12a) – right of the chimney, this climb starts with a tough crimp through the bulged overhang. – from Rock Climbing Taiwan

Sky Ladder 倒走天梯 (5.10b) – One of the best at the grade. Sustained climbing with several roofs” – Rock Ckimbing Taiwan Guide Book. – from Rock Climbing Taiwan

 

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Long Dong Rock Climbing Otc-10

Long Dong Rock Climbing Otc-10

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Chet at First Cave Long Dong,  Chet 在龍洞 第一洞

新北市樹林社區大學學員,前往貢寮龍洞地質公園鼻頭角步道進行「步道美學課程」,學員在鼻頭角步道戶外教學時,突然遇到瘋狗浪打來造成八人落海,新北市消防局及海巡署立即前往救援,晚間七點左右,消防人員已經將落海的八人救起,不過都沒有了生命跡象。

就在事發後的一天我們還是啟程去了龍洞,這天的天空一樣璀璨亮麗,龍洞的岩石還是被不留情的太陽照的閃閃發光。 在祥和的風景下,這裡有些許的不安全。

但你願意站在角落,還是離開陰影接近陽光?

With Nate, Emma, Jason, Paul

TAIPEI, Taiwan — Eight students of Shulin Community University in New Taipei City were swept out to sea by rogue waves yesterday afternoon while walking on the coastal pavement of the Long dong Geopark in Gongliao District; all were pronounced dead at a local hospital after being retrieved by rescue personnel, according to Fire Bureau officials.

The day after the accident we still heading to LD. The sky is as blue as it can be. The rocks still glares from the unforgiving sun. This place is gorgeous but with a trap.

The question is will you stay in the corner, or comes out of the the shadow and enjoy the sun?

With Nate, Emma, Jason, Paul

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New Moriteam Background

New Moriteam Background Nov-9-2013

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將末日極限的網站背景由 Dasha Urbex 的照片換為 Chris 在高雄攀岩的照片。

Replacing Dasha’s Urbex Background to Chris Climbing at Kaohsiung.

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